Belgrade: The final resting place of Josip Broz: The House of Flowers

Text: Mersiha Karić

Photography: Mersiha Karić

Prošli vikend posjetili smo Beograd… te pored svih znamenitosti koje smo željeli vidjeti posjetili smo i Kuću cvijeća i Muzej Istorije Jugoslavije (MIJ). Budući da smo do sada samo na televiziji i u knjigama imali priliku vidjeti po koju scenu iz Titovog vječnog doma, za nas je ova posjeta bila veoma uzbudljiva.

Po dolasku u naselje koje je popularno u krugovima beogradske elite, odmah smo shvatili da smo na pravom putu. Par autobusa, 20-tak automobila i 100-tinjak ljudi nalazilo se u podnožju predivnog zelenog proplanka na vrhu kojeg se nalazi grob doživotnog predsjednika Jugoslavije!

Last weekend we have visited Belgrade … and in addition to all the sights that we wanted to see we had to see the House of Flowers and the Museum of Yugoslav History (MIJ). Since, we had an opportunity to see it only on television and in books, the visit to Toto’s eternal resting place, for us was very exciting.

Upon arrival at the settlement, which is popular in the circles of the Belgrade elite, we immediately realized that we were on the right track. A pair of buses, about 20 cars and about 100 people were in the foothills of the beautiful green glade, on top of which is the tomb of lifelong president of Yugoslavia!

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Statua Josipa Broza Tita

Penjući se puteljkom, komentarisali smo kako je to vjerovatno jedno od naljepših mjesta u Beogradu. Prostor je djelovao veoma urbano, ali u isto vrijeme izrazito tiho i spokojno… prostor prepun velikih zelenih provršina, sa decentno odabranom rasvjetom i pokojom statuom.

Climbing the path, we commented that it was probably one of the most beautiful places in Belgrade. The area is looking very urban, but at the same time it is extremely quiet and peaceful … full of large green levels, with discreet lighting and a few statues.

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Jedna od statua

Kuća cvijeća pripala je memorijalnom kompleksu koji je otvoren 1982. godine, dvije godine nakon što je Josip Broz sahranjen, 8. maja 1980. godine. Pored ovog objekta kompleksu su pripadali i Muzej 25. maj, Bilijarnica, Lovačka kuća, Stari Muzej, Vila Mir i rezidencija u Užičkoj 15, u koju se nakon raspada Jugoslavije, uselio Slobodan Milošević. Danas je Kuća Cvijeća dio Muzeja Istorije Jugoslavije, te smo mi imali priliku posjetiti ovaj mali, skromno očuvan, ali skladno uređen prostor.

House of Flowers was part of the memorial complex, which is opened in 1982, two years after Josip Broz was buried, May 8th 1980. In addition to this complex were few more buildings, such as: Museum of May 25th, Bilijarnica, Hunting Lodge, The Old Museum, Villa Mir and residence in the Street Uzice 15, which was a home of Slobodan Milosevic, after the collapse of Yugoslavia. Today, the House of Flowers is a part of the Museum of Yugoslav History, and we had the opportunity to visit this small, modestly preserved, but nicely decorated premises. 

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Karta za ulaz u Kuću cvijeću i MIJ – 400 dinara
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Zastave Jugoslavije u par manjih formata kostaju 10 000-20 000 dinara

Naime, kuća i susjedni objekti sagrađeni su po projektu arhitekte Stjepana Kralja 1975. godine. Za vrijeme života Druga Tita, objekat u kome je sada sahranjen zvao se ‘Cvjećara’, a njegova osnovna namjena je bila da služi kao zimska bašta i Titova kancelarija. On je od razlaza sa suprugom Jovankom 1977. do smrti, ovdje provodio većinu vremena.

The house and additional buildings were designed by architect Stjepan Kralj in 1975. During the life of Tito, the building in which he is now buried, was called ‘Flower Shop’, but it’s main purpose was to serve as a winter garden and Tito’s office. In this house, after the break with his wife Jovanka in 1977, until his death, Tito spent most of the time.

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Glavni ulaz sa kružnom fontanom koja nije u funkciji

Sam objekat se sastoji iz tri dijela: cvijetne bašte u sredini, i dva paralelna hodnika sa strana, a prema gradu orijentisana je velika terasa sa predivnim pogledom na Beograd!

The house consists of three parts: flower garden in the middle and two parallel corridors on each side and, city-oriented, large terrace with a beautiful view of Belgrade!

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Centralni prostor sa Titovim grobom, zelenilom i pokojim crvenim cvijetom

Moju pažnju privukla je jednostavnost, ali i unikatnost objekta. Bez suvišnih detalja, izrazito funkcionalan, prozračan i skladno osmišljen prostor. I Titov grob je baš takav. Kameni, čiste forme i bez ikakvih obilježja. Monumentalnost kakvu još nisam vidjela do sada. Bez osjećaja tjeskobe, bez pretjerane duhovnosti… Aula koja odiše slobodom, dostojanstvom i mirom!

My attention was attracted by the simplicity of the design but also the uniqueness of the building. No frills, highly functional, airy and harmoniously designed space… same as Tito’s grave… stone, created in the pure form and without any marks. Monumentality that I had never seen before! Without a sense of anxiety, without excessive spirituality… Aula that respires with freedom, dignity and peace!

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Grob Josipa Broza Tita sa mermernom pločom teškom 9 tona

Svake godine par hiljada jugonostalgičara, hodočasnika, ljubitelja lika i djela bivšeg predsjednika SFRJ, Josipa posjeti njegov mauzolej, u čijem se sastavu nalazi i predivna kolekcija pisanih posveta i oko 2200 štafeta, ali i luksuzni izrezbareni stol kojeg je na poklon dobio od Makednoske delegacije!

Every year, a few thousand of Yugoslav worshipers, pilgrims, admirers of the figure and work of the former Yugoslavia president, visit his mausoleum. In the composition of the museum there is a beautiful collection of written dedications and approximately 2,200 of batons, but also luxurious table which is a gift given by a Macedonian delegation!

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Kolekcija ličnih acesoara koje je Drug Tito koristio u svojoj kancelariji
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Jedna od mnogobrojinih posveta Drugu Titu koje se nalaze u muzeju

Po meni posebnu priču ima impozantna kolekcija štafeta. Naime, pojam “Štafeta mladosti”, je termin koji je prvi put upotrijebljen 1945. godine. “Štafeta mladosti” je palica koja je išla kroz cijelu SFRJ, te svakog  25. maja dodjeljivana predsjedniku Josipu Brozu. Taj datum proglašen je njegovim rođendanom, iako je Tito rođen 7. maja! 1957. godine taj datum je proglašen “Danom mladosti”.

Nakon Titove smrti dodjeljivana je predsjedniku Socijalističkog saveza omladine Jugoslavije. Svaka od njih je simbol bratstva, jedinstva i neizmjerne zahvalnosti, o kojoj su pisali oni koji su cijenili lik i djelo Broza Tita.

Personally I was impressed by baton collection. The term “Baton of Youth” is term that was first used in 1945. “Baton of Youth” is the rod that went through the entire Yugoslavia, and every 25th of May, was given to President Josip Broz. This date was declared as his birthday, although Tito was born on 7th of May! In 1957 that date was declared as “The Youth Day”.

After Tito’s death Baton is used to be given to the president of the Socialist Union of Youth of Yugoslavia. Each is a symbol of brotherhood, unity and immense gratitude, written by those who appreciated the character and work of Broz Tito.

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Štafete mladosti

Prilikom odlaska iz Kuće cvijeća i Muzeja Istorije Jugoslavije (MIJ), pogled su nam skrenuli suveniri u malom suvenir shopu od svega 8 m2. Pažljivo birani, moderno dizajnirani, čak i za nas koji smo nekada živjeli u SFRJ dio su davne prošlosti  i skoro iščezle uspomene…iako smo svi u našim domovima imali bar po neki od sličnih simbola bivše Socijalističke Federativne Republike Jugoslavije…

While we were leaving the House of Flowers and the Museum of Yugoslav History (MIJ), our attention was attracted by souvenirs from the small souvenir shop of only 8 m2. Carefully chosen, well designed, even for us, who were once lived in Yugoslavia, are part of the distant past and almost vanished memories … even though we all, in our homes, had at least some of the similar symbols of the former Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia… 

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Hvala mojim dragim drugovima na predivnom putovanju. Dolores Šešum , Edin Tutić & Bojan Pogarčić ❤

Thanks you my dear friends for a wonderful journey. Dolores Sesum, Edin Tutic & Bojan Pogarčic ❤

 

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